Somewhat forgotten, though, is that Bloukrans has something else to offer. Something that should be an even bigger drawcard for tourism, but has sadly been neglected.

The absolutely spectacular Bloukrans Pass.

The old, original pass.

I rode this pass on my motorcycle about two decades ago. Even though it was badly in need of maintenance back then, the sheer beauty of the road took my breath away.

Severe flooding and rockfalls in November 2007 subsequently damaged the pass, leading to its closure.

Fast forward to my return visit in December 2024. By then, the Western Cape section had undergone extensive repairs and had officially reopened in August 2023. Sadly, the restoration only extended as far as the provincial boundary at the Bloukrans River.

The Eastern Cape side remained officially closed.

It did, however, present a wonderful opportunity to see the contrast between the two sections of this remarkable old road.

A road through the forest

When the Cape government began considering a coastal road between Port Elizabeth and Plettenberg Bay in the late nineteenth century, master pass-builder Thomas Bain was tasked with finding a route through the formidable Grootrivier and Bloukrans gorges.

Until then, the practical overland route between Port Elizabeth and George had been through the Langkloof and across the Outeniqua Mountains.

The dense Tsitsikamma forests were considered almost impenetrable.

Following the devastating forest fires of 1869, new possibilities for a route through the area became apparent. Bain and his team eventually succeeded in taking a road through terrain that earlier travellers had considered an enormous obstacle.

More than a century later, the old pass still winds its way through that same extraordinary landscape.

The forgotten side

It was with great excitement that I approached the pass from the Eastern Cape side during my December 2024 visit.

The road was officially closed, but the closure was not being enforced. The large heap of gravel marking the entrance was still there, along with evidence that at least one motorist had discovered it rather abruptly.

There was, however, a gap beside the barrier through which vehicles had clearly been passing.

I decided to ride through.

That decision allowed me to experience the entire pass, including the neglected Eastern Cape section. But it was immediately apparent why the road had been closed.

Vegetation had narrowed parts of the road to a single lane. In places, sections of the road had fallen away, and there was evidence of rockfalls.

It was certainly not a road to be taken lightly.

As I made my way into the pass, I encountered two motorcycles with sidecars heading in the opposite direction.

Riding through here in a sidecar must be a unique experience in its own right!

I also encountered two vehicles approaching from the front. Fortunately, everyone was travelling slowly enough to see one another in good time.

That was just as well, considering how narrow the road had become.

It was an unforgettable ride, but certainly not one I would recommend undertaking while the road remains officially closed.

Almost Jurassic

Driving through the forest on an abandoned road like this is almost Jurassic-like.

It feels as though the forest is watching you. You half expect some prehistoric creature to emerge from the undergrowth every time you round a corner.

The trees close in overhead, the light filters through the leaves, and the smells of the forest seem so much stronger than they do from inside a car.

The air is fresh, and the temperature is considerably more pleasant than on the hot motorway above.

This is what makes travelling on a motorcycle so special.

You don’t merely look at the landscape. You become part of it.

Just as you settle into the experience, you round another corner and arrive at the beautiful crossing over the Bloukrans River.

This is the bottom of the Bloukrans Gorge.

And I have to say, I got here in a far more enjoyable way than jumping off a bridge!

What a difference!

You are now entering the Western Cape. And what a difference it makes!

The old pass has been beautifully restored, and the road surface is a pleasure to ride.

The difference between the neglected Eastern Cape section and the repaired Western Cape side could hardly be more obvious.

The going is still slow, but now it’s mostly because of the scenery and the constant temptation to stop for photographs.

And no photograph can really do this place justice.

Every corner seems to reveal another beautiful stretch of road, another stand of magnificent trees or another glimpse of the river below.

And all too soon, it’s over.

The pass exits close to the N2 toll plaza, unfortunately.

So, heading west on the N2, you’ll still have to pay Zacchaeus* his toll. Or, if you have the time, you can continue towards Nature’s Valley and explore more of this wonderful part of the Garden Route.

A few useful thoughts

On a side note, when we plan and discover routes (and yes, you really can discover routes on a map), we use Tracks4Africa and Slingsby paper maps.

There is something special about spreading a proper map across a table and discovering roads and places you never knew existed. I’ve written more about that in Viva die Papierkaart.

These maps are an investment in your adventuring life and well worth it.

Another investment I’d happily recommend is a subscription to Mountain Passes South Africa.

It contains a wealth of information on South Africa’s mountain passes. This is not a paid endorsement. I recommend it because I’ve personally found it extremely useful.

And I fully agree with its assessment that Bloukrans Pass is worthy of National Monument status.

This historic road is a remarkable piece of engineering, set in one of the most beautiful forests in South Africa.

What a pity that the entire pass has not received the attention it deserves.

*Zacchaeus was a chief tax collector at Jericho in the Bible.

Route access note: This article recounts a ride undertaken in December 2024, not a recommendation to enter a closed road. The Eastern Cape section was officially closed during the ride and remained closed according to reports published in 2025. Check the latest official road notices before travelling and do not bypass road-closure barriers. The condition and accessibility of the route may change.

Featured photograph: Aerial view of the Bloukrans Bridge, originally credited to Panoramio.